top of page

Conditions/News : Nevis, Dad, Thaw & Scrambling

Writer: Dan GoodwinDan Goodwin

Tony and Tom moving up a springlike Number 4 Gully on Ben Nevis
Tony and Tom moving up a springlike Number 4 Gully on Ben Nevis

Ive just had a great day with Tom and Tony on Ben Nevis where we went to look for some snow and found some high in the Ciste and managed to link things together to make our way up Number 4 gully to gain a rather summery scene on the plateau above. I don’t think I have ever seen the big gullies that split the huge North Face so low for the time of year giving an almost June impression. The small lochan that sits in the Ciste often looks like a glacial pool in March but had a lone chunk of ice floating in the middle. Despite the lack of snow though the atmospheric clouds drifting in and out still make it an inspiring place to be in among the big cliffs.A bit of change over the last couple of weeks where things went from good and wintry to spring then summer quite quickly although as I type its about to bounce back to cold over the next week. Its certainly kept us on our toes with courses running almost every day since the last part of February. We have though adapted and made the most of what conditions we have and been able to deliver winter or switch modes to rock and scrambling days.


A skills team moving around in a wintery Northern Cairngorms
A skills team moving around in a wintery Northern Cairngorms

A bit of change over the last couple of weeks where things went from good and wintry to spring then summer quite quickly although as I type its about to bounce back to cold over the next week. Its certainly kept us on our toes with courses running almost every day since the last part of February. We have though adapted and made the most of what conditions we have and been able to deliver winter or switch modes to rock and scrambling days.



We have had some skills courses both in the Cairngorms and also the West Coast. Cathrine joined us for a day of skills in the sun on Cairngorm before heading to Kingussie crag to start getting the mind into climbing ahead of the summer.

Pre thaw Alexandra and Anna where on the West Coast getting some winter skills in on the Nid ridge on Aonach Mor and a day on Stob Coire Nan Lochan in Glencoe. The West Coast mountains seemed to get a small top up giving a bit more snow than the Cairngorms before they to succumbed to the warm temperatures to.


Dad in the Northern Corries on frozen turf but lean snow before it vanished
Dad in the Northern Corries on frozen turf but lean snow before it vanished

Dad also came up for a weekend and we managed to get a few pitches in the Northern Corries which was great. We also had a walk into Creag Meagaidh for a little recce to Coire Chriochairein to see if it would work for future courses. Which it will, it's good to start getting a few new areas to operate where things are a bit quieter and new ground.


Tom and Tony under blue skies on the dramatic CMD arete, Ben Nevis
Tom and Tony under blue skies on the dramatic CMD arete, Ben Nevis

Jo has just been out today on the CMD arete with Tom and Tony on a blue sky day. This is perhaps one of the best mountain outings in the country. A stunning ridge scrambly but not to tricky with the huge backdrop of the impressive North Face of Ben Nevis and has the bonus of ending on the highest point in the UK.


Stephen and Megan high on Castle Ridge : Iain Ballentyne
Stephen and Megan high on Castle Ridge : Iain Ballentyne

They would have had views across to Iain who was out for us with Stephen who where out having a look at various climbing skills on Castle Ridge. with a descent of Ledge Route to try and keep things a bit wintry. Although the winter may not be in full flow that desnt mean the mountaineering and climbing learning has to stop.


Tom and Saeqh Scrambling in the spring sunshine in the Cairngorms
Tom and Saeqh Scrambling in the spring sunshine in the Cairngorms

We where also joined for a day by Tom and his partner for a day in the Northern Cairngorms with a Twin Ribs scramble and then various skills along the ridge, abseiling off the side and then climbing back up looking at some short pitching and basic anchors. The Cairngorm granite makes for a great training ground.


So as things stand with conditions things have stripped right back with regards winter conditions which is certainly pretty early but perhaps a bit reflective of a low snow winter. There wasn’t a huge amount of cover prior to the thaw. The snow we have had through the season has always been a thin cover that cant sustain these thaws which tend to reduce things back to the start each time. We have got one more course this weekend and with a cold snap this week things should look a bit whiter and good for the weekend.


A cold week ahead but looking low on the precipitation levels
A cold week ahead but looking low on the precipitation levels

With the conditions as they are we are not taking anymore winter bookings for this season and getting ready for some scrambling and rock climbing starting. We will though be looking forward to next winter and dates for winter 2026 open courses will be online in April. Although its been a low snow season has been great fun through the season with plenty of snowy and winter days. Road side ice has been climbed a couple of good ski touring days and plenty of days instructing essential winter skills training. Keep the faith for next season. For scrambling and summer courses we have been prepping the website ready for spring and you can take a tour here as the winter images thaw off to spring and summer.

Comments


bottom of page